I decided to teach in Laos sight unseen. Friends had constantly been telling me about this marvellously peaceful country that only the CIA could find on a map years back and I had certainly had enough of teaching in the evil oil empires of Halliburton and BP in Baku, Azerbaijan. This peaceful calm may be set to change with Laos heading up all the top 2009 travel destinations this year, but it will take a lot to alter the tranquillity the locals have developed after so many years of adversity.

A few years ago if you googled the country the only hits you would find would either be about the undeclared American war or the deadly UXO they left behind. Teaching resources were hard to find until one day I came across an ad for a teacher online. I emailed the contact and immediately received a positive response, “The new term begins on X date, please come by a few days before and we'll sort it all out.” Such nonchalance struck me as a bit odd but commuting everyday out to an oil terminal in the Azeri desert and the thought of another winter in Azerbaijan was helping to cloud my judgement.

Flying halfway around the world I found myself in the compact and relatively quiet capital city of Vientiane. During my stay there they were just getting 'round to putting up the traffic lights in the city. In fact the change was so intense while I was there, I would probably now have difficulty recognizing the city I left, but at the time you could certainly classify it as laid back.

I found the school I had applied with and saw that they had unfortunately purchased some Australian franchise that had since gone bust and things were a bit up in the air. The DOS was a hard-working local teacher who was trying to do his best with a motley crew of teachers who ranged from a few serious professionals who had settled down and married locally to hungover backpackers who would often call in sick if not disappear completely. Credentials and experience were appreciated, but depending on the need, certainly not necessary. The money certainly wasn't what it had been out in the desert, but nor were the expectations and pressure and there was a photocopier to boot.

In this academy, classes were generally big, around 20 students. The age range could run from 13yr old schoolgirls to 50+ businessmen trying to get ahead. But even with such wide ranges and backgrounds, the learners generally got along and there were no problems with grouping people from such different life experiences. Once in groups however there was a different challenge. As their educational difference had mainly come from rote learning, a lot of learner training and awareness raising was needed in order to use the strengths they already had and build on them. Fantastic memories can be great vocabulary learning tools if harnessed correctly.

After teaching a term with this school, I realized I needed more professionally and was lucky enough to find a spot with a great school called Vientiane College. A school that is so sought after by local expatriates that they never have to advertise openings. A place run by dedicated teachers who really care about teaching and more importantly the non-teaching that is often being passed off as language teaching. Here the money was a lot better, but so were the requirements and expectations. Training sessions for teachers that actually taught something were mandatory.  These sessions usually focused on practical matters and were great learning opportunities. Maybe not for some, but for the dedicated teacher a welcome and refreshing relief to liven up your teaching. There are rumours that a big Australian University is looking to open up shop in the city, which would mean stiff competition for Vientiane College, but that remains to be seen.

There is another school called Kettisack International which used to be called Honour International. It is an “international” school that to my information hasn't yet received certification. Meaning that it is much cheaper than normal international schools and wealthy locals can afford to send their children there. This also means that it doesn't only hire at international job conferences. They are often looking for people to teach children anything from English to Science.

The demand for English is still high and as more donor wealth pours into the country, the demand should rise with it. The local currency has fared rather well in the recent crisis which has strangely led to a steep rise in prices, especially imported goods. That said, a good living can still be made though your savings will be much less than if you were working in Japan or South Korea.

If you're serious about giving Laos a shot, do it but do it wisely. Unlike the average backpacker with their noses buried in their guidebooks, crossing that bridge from Thailand involves the realization that you are in fact crossing into a different country. One that does share some cultural ties, but one that is different all the same. The government still frowns upon relationships with locals outside of marriage, something which may have stemmed the tide of backpacking cowboy teachers from flooding over the border. Come with enough money saved so that you can take your time in choosing. If there are openings, schools will be more than happy to snatch up someone with teaching credentials, but take your time and compare what is being offered.

Vientiane itself is a lovely place to live and work. For some reason sunsets with a cold Beerlao by the Mekong never seem to get old. There's nightlife if you want it and great restaurants to splurge on. Splurge being completely relative as you probably can't eat better for less anywhere. Then of course there is the chance to explore the country in-depth. Just getting out of the capital means seeing something completely different.

Finding a flat is easy enough, but again take your time and figure out in which part of the city you want to live. You may have to hire an agent to help you, but unless you are extremely lucky, they will know of the 'perfect' place long before you do. And last but not least, don't succumb to the temptation to immediately join the hordes of scooters clogging up the streets and polluting the air with their noise and smog. There are only 2 or 3 hills in the whole city, buy yourself a bike and do everyone a favour. There's nowhere in the city that you can't reach in 30minutes on a bike, you're heart will thank you for it even if you do get a little wet in a sudden downpour.

Jobs outside the capital are harder to come by, but once again, with a little perseverance and a little luck some great posts are to be found out in the provinces too. Whatever the case, the secret's out...it's no longer the hidden gem, but it is still a gem all the same.

Troy Nahumko

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